We'll Always Have Paris

It's the time of year for goodbyes and farewells. The leaving parties and weekends away started over a month ago...making sure everyone has their moment, their closure.
I was going to say that even after being an expat for over half my life, that goodbyes don't get easier, but that is not true, they do.

When I left the Middle East four years ago, I kissed best friends farewell, then cried and cried as I said goodbye to the life I made for myself.

 The world seems a smaller place to me since then. I know that lots of my goodbyes are "see you soon", made easier with  set plans of races together, visits and promises of joint holidays sooner rather than later. This summer I'm spending time with a good friend I met in Uganda, my Kenyan running buddy and seeing new friends in Canada from this year in Kuwait. All this does actually make those goodbyes easier.

Kuwait itself is not a hard place to say goodbye to, especially at this time of year. Friends that leave the security of the strong Kuwaiti Dinar, comfort themselves in the knowledge that they are moving to a greener, cleaner country. Here, every day the dust is blown in and the blue sky is once again hidden. Photos don't even capture the sweeping sand.  So instead, I will share some photos of a much more beautiful city.

Living in 2D- the sandpit

I think about my life in Africa every day.

Every.single.day.

Until this afternoon, I had thought about whether I had overreacted last year. I was miserable at the 'w' place. I felt suffocated and alone, my Headmaster unable to support me and working with some awful people. In my eyes I was unappreciated and undervalued.

I say, until today I thought I had overreacted, because today I had a meeting with my Headteacher about a recent observation, my target setting and my ongoing professional development.

This year my Head recognised all my strengths and made me feel like a valued and experience member of staff. He encouraged me to make my own targets that I want to work towards.Doesn't sound anything amazing. That is what he should do as a leader. But last year I worked with crazy people. I still find it hard to believe some of the stuff that happened to be honest.

I really did have a very tough year professionally last year in Kenya. This year I have slept soundly ever. single. night. I work hard, but I leave it all behind me. It really was a horrid work experience last year but because I loved so much of my life in East Africa it made the decision to leave such a hard one.

Even though I made the right decision for me at that time, it doesn't mean I don't ache for some of my old life.

I miss Africa.

A general statement, but there is no other way to say it.

I think about the children in my 'the-most-amazing-class-that-I-have-ever-taught' and I still hear them laughing and chatting, putting the world to right. I see them racing out the door to swimming, coming back for their tennis racket , swapping it for a hockey stick for the next period,waving goodbye at the end of the day...

My whole being misses Africa, my ears, my eyes, my heart; life can be dull here in the sandpit.

I think about my drive to and from work. The best commute ever, through the valleys that used to grow coffee, but are now scattered with a few houses. Me, driving home in my Surf, with my music turned up loud, avoiding the men on their bicycles and dodging matatus.Stopping by for cheap-cheap flowers, just because.

I miss arriving home to Coco the dog and Sam (my eskari) opening the gate with big smiles and greetings...it makes coming home to an apartment by yourself a very quiet experience.

I try not to think about it too much at night (or when I am drinking gin!). My memories are like wounds then. The blood will come as tears if they are picked at. I've left. I shouldn't go back, not there anyway, should I? I've gone back before, I'm doing it now. It is not any easier than starting again in lots of ways. I should try somewhere else. Best to share memories with friends in the sunshine.

I miss my yoga buddies, my runs in the forest, drinks in the sunshine, hair full of dust and high-altitude-bronzed skin (or dirt...you'll never know!), pretty much everything.

This sounds like I am very blue and melancholic. I'm not. The opportunities that I have for holidays and adventures are more for living in Kuwait. I have achieved more in my running since I have been in Kuwait and I am grateful for having buddies here that got me through my 2 marathons and 1 half marathon since January 25th. Life is good. But there is no forgetting that I live in a sandpit. It is 2D. And...it can be pretty boring when there is always power and water...and we are hardly going to run out of fuel..! We want for nothing here. You may have to pay extra for it (yes- that hybrid bike is really £200 more here than in the UK) but if you want it, you can have it. Droughts haven't effected the butter stock in the supermarket, seasons don't effect the availability of imported blueberries, my tomatoes are always round and you are NEVER far from a Starbucks. It is not really 'living' is it?

I even find it hard to write about life in Kuwait. What should I write about? Did you hear of the news of a Kuwaiti Tweeter was jailed recently for insulting the Amir, he recieved a 5 year sentence. Big brother is out here.

I was going to write about my 10km race in Bahrain, which I did hungover, slightly drunk  from the hair that followed and a little wobbly after dancing on tables the night before...I got 1 hour dead. I was just pleased for starting and then I managed to get a PB.  I did it because I had amazing friends waiting for me at the finish. Friends that said, 'We are leaving after an hour, so if you don't run fast you have to find your own way home!' Love them!
One of my friends actually said, 'That is not Robyn, she is running too fast!" Haaaaa.

On a weekend visit to Bahrain recently, I was thinking of the people that I choose to surround myself with.  Most are adventurous and athletic, fun and generous (and obviously very supportive!). There words inspire me and want me to be my best. And most of them have memories of happy times in Africa. There was a moment where the group bantered in Swahili with the waiter, making his eyes light up and our spirits soar.We swap stories over coffee, or pizza, beer and one to many margaritas, time and time again. Just because, as one friend said to me, 'I know'.
We know.

We don't get bored of talking about that time we got three punctures on the way to Ishasha, or sigh hearing about when your Landy pulled out a safari truck from the mud.

 My friends and I share memories like water to a thirsty traveller. The listeners lap up every word, savouring them so the moments last longer and then we are all transported back to our Africa. That is what you call a low-cost airline.

Word is out about a new school opening up in Fort Portal, Uganda. (I am booking my place for the future!) If you know (first hand) of a wonderful school in Africa (preferably in East Africa...but I am open to options), can you email me or leave me a comment. Thank you!!

(P.S. I started to write this post a few months ago...it has taken me a while to find the words and load the pictures! I now have wireless internet, making my 2D life a bit more colourful and stimulating!)



Coming back

I'm happy.

Just thought I need to share that with you. Yes, the dust and air is drying my skin and messing with my sinuses. But I am happy. Yes, I miss the lush greenery of Africa after the rains and I miss the smell of it. I miss the happy faces and the monkeys that I saw on a daily basis.

I haven't really talked about what it was like to 'come back' to a place I used to live.  I've been a teenager here. Had teenage fights with my parents here. Huffed and puffed and squeezed lots of spots here. Studied for exams and pretended to study for exams. Went out to my first party. Got dressed up for my first formal dance. And sat those exams here. Then later I came back and worked here. Travelled and met life long friends. I've lived here for a total of six years, the periods of my life separated with university and the start of my working life as a wanna-be-adult.

A couple of folk that I was friendly with, but who were not in my circle of friends, were so surprised to see me back and took a double take when they saw me in the staffroom- not realising I was coming back, but also not able to believe that the three years I was away went by with a blink of their eye.

Lots of people have asked why I came back. Kind of complex. Kind of not. The answer is, because I could. The money is great. I was happy here before. It is a great place to travel from. I can do it again. Well, as I said, it is hardly for the scenery, although I do still love the Kuwait Towers at the coast...so they deserved a visit last week!

One thing about 'coming back' is that it has made the world seem a lot smaller.

The three years in East Africa now seem a little bit like an extended holiday. I'm just back to the day job now, my norm, my routine. But I like it.

 

 

 

The Big Things

It is pay day!! A heavy weight is being lifted off my shoulders.

We all know there is more to life than money. But in reality, we know money helps.

This month, my first pay in Kuwait, will equate to about 4 months working in East Africa, where I was for 3 years. (This is partly due to exchange rates as well as outgoings on my salary).Now that I have left, I really don’t know I how I managed to go on safari, own a car, have a few holidays (yes I do-thanks mum and dad!).  People will say, 'oh, but it is cheaper in Africa'. Well, only people that haven’t lived there will say that. Nairobi is expensive. Yes it is cheaper, than London, Dublin, New York…what are you comparing it with? Kampala and Nairobi were both cities where the cost of living was rising monthly. (Not helped by the UN and big Western NGOs that paid big housing allowances and salaries).

I didn’t leave because of my salary. But I know that I would have had to soon, if I hadn’t gone this year.

It is such a nice thought that soon I will not have to worry about reaching the end of the month. Or have to scrape together my glass bottles to take back to Nakumat, just to get a few more thousand shillings!

Saying that, there is a downside to getting paid in Kuwaiti Dinar (only a tiny one mind)….

My friend and I treated ourselves to a coffee and macaroon at Laduree the other morning.  Only after we left I  converted  the money into dollars and we had just paid over $9 each for a coffee. Bit crazy. Eeek!...it doesn’t sound that much in Kuwaiti Dinars! Once I am paid, I will stop converting money, it is the only way to spend it! (Ha!) Anyhow, it was worth it, for an hour or so, my friend and I happily pretended we were on an avenue in Paris...quite hard to do in a mall in Kuwait…but we tried!

 

Friday

Dear Kuwait, You are starting to look a bit like home again. 
Dear Friday, Now you are the start of the weekend. Two days off work, Friday and Saturday. Friday, the quiet day; the mosques are busy but the breakfast cafes and roads are blissfully quiet for a few hours. I love Fridays.
Dear Call to Prayer, Some new expats may complain about the noise, where as I love the sound of the call to prayer at our neighbouring mosque. It brings with it a rhythm to the day, plus I know I have one hour extra in bed before it is a time to get up!
Dear Morning Runs, Yep-it is still hot. But even on my day of rest (a Friday) it is worth getting outside before 5.30 am and I feel soooo much better for it.
Dear Dear Running Buddy, I wouldn't be able to get out of bed without you, even if I feel good after the run! Thank you!
Dear Immigration Offices,  Although I love the weather here in November, it would be great if I could get my passport back before my half term break, I really want to get on a plane then!
Dear Friends, I am a still a bit here, there and everywhere. I will be better at keeping in touch in a couple of weeks.

A safari in Poole

I mentioned in my last post that I visited Poole for the day. It was like being in Europe. The sunny Mediterranean Europe that is...not Scotland, Europe!

I was in London, staying with my friend Tania, (who was my first visitor in Uganda), meeting her lovely daughter Polly and sweltering in the summer heat. She had the brain wave of visiting her parents and brother at the seaside. Brilliant idea!

Tania and I went for a jetski safari (thank you, Ross!) to cool off. (I actually think Tania just wanted to get-me-back for all the bumpy long drives in Uganda!) I had a go at driving, but was happy to let Tania take control...so I could concentrate fully on holding on tight!

It was so much fun and I highly recommend the safaris, it was a thrilling way to see the beautiful Jurassic Coast. It was also a great way to end my summer in the UK.

I am leaving the UK tomorrow, saying au revoir to; reading in bed in the morning, radio 2, cash-back, the weekend papers, green grass, wine (oh my God...why am I going!!!???) and of course having to say goodbye to my mum. (As I said earlier, I feel like I have been saying goodbye all holiday, but my mum gets the last one at the airport!).

So, back to a place that was 'home' to me a while ago. I'm off to Kuwait. Where I have lived twice before in my life. The first time as a teenager and went to school there for a couple of years, then later as a teacher, where I lived, before Africa , for four years. And again, now. A bit older and wiser (well-I like to think so anyway!)

It is definitely the end of the summer...it has rained now for two days. I must be ready...I've changed my mailing address on my profile on Facebook (the equivalent of redirecting my mail), my visa in glued into my passport and my bladder bag is filled with gin. (Tut tut-the things we do!)

So, I really have said goodbye to Africa, for now at least. So 'and beyond' I go-hence the change to my blog name. Thanks to the lovely Rachel at Tunes and Spoons for giving my blog a new look. I really love it, hope you do too!

Deep breathes. Here I go!

Piecing it together -a visit from Team Canada!

One of the best things about living abroad and travelling, is meeting up with amazing friends in different places and connecting the different parts of your life together.

It is even better when reconnections take place in the sunshine in Scotland! It gives me a chance to be tour guide again, a job I love!

I love it around  Inverary, a trip home wouldn't be complete without a visit there!

So great to spend time with Team Canada before the Olympics! (You may have seen Heather on TV by the torch! :)

International Teaching-Choosing the Right School

Beware-the longest post in my blogging history...

 I rarely write about the 'w' thing.

Yet, I spend so much of my time there.

The world of International Teachers is a funny one.

It was only at a hockey tournament recently that I realised how 'we', the teachers, were at the peripheral of the Kenyan community. As I spent my Saturday rolling on balls and timing matches, I really felt, more than anywhere I had ever taught, that here I am the hired 'help'.

Many of the prep schools in Kenya pride themselves on the fact that they are not International schools, but, British prep schools that just happen to be in Kenya (hmmm). But this is not about schools here in Kenya...it is just a little check-list I use. In the Middle East, we talked of 'Mickey Mouse' schools. Schools that, from a distance, seemed like they ticked all the boxes (generally new ones, with amazing resources), but just were paying for their accreditations. Maybe this might help to source the right school for you...

A Mini Guide to International Teaching

Part 1- Choosing the Right School
(PS- I have no idea WHAT part 2 would be about...if there is one!?)

• Do not choose the country over the school. Remember that you will be spending A LOT of time at work. You could be working on an idyllic island, but if you don't have time to enjoy the country then you will be very unhappy. You have to choose the school because it is where you want to work, a place that you will be able to grow and develop professionally and that can offer things  that other schools cannot.At the moment, my new phrase is, 'I love Kenya. I just don't have time to enjoy it'.(If you do choose the country over the school, NEVER complain about work, as that is not why you moved there.) Saying all that...take that advice with a pinch of salt, as I definitely chose to live in Uganda, rather than the school and I do not regret it for a second. I think you CAN choose the country if you are near the beginning or end of your teaching career...but only then.

• Do your research on the school. This seems pretty obvious, but believe me it is the most important factor. I have never gone to a job fair, but I know that these schools are, of course, going to 'sell' their school to you. You need to do your own research into the country and school. It is best if you visit the school before you sign your contract. I have always managed to visit the school and it does help. Although you still won't know exactly what it is like to work there, you will get a feel for the dynamics of staff in the staffroom and you will get to meet pupils etc. Also, work out your 'take home' salary. On paper the salary might sound good and of course the school will say it is 'competitive' or 'good' , but is it really? Factor in costs like accommodation, petrol, household staff (yes-a perk of living as an ex-pat), security and food shopping. If you don't get to meet teachers at the school (before signing) ask about your colleagues. Are they single? Couples? Families? If there are many teachers married to non-teachers, it probably means that the salary is not very good, that it is hard to live off only a teaching salary. Once you have been on the international circuit for a while, research is mostly done by talking to friends/other teachers who have worked to tell you about their experiences. I have been teaching abroad for going on 8 years (ah! where has the time gone!?) and you quickly find out what a small world the teaching world is. There is always someone that knows someone in this school or worked in that. (That is why it is also so important to always do your best, work professionally and leave a school on good terms!) This all sounds so obvious, but really, when some young teachers rock-up to start their job, I wonder if they know where the country (that they have just relocated to) is located on a map. Worrying!!
 

• Interview the school. Remember it is very important that YOU choose the right school. Every school wants you to say that you will work for them for a minimum of 3 years (just say it!!), but there is no way you can do that if you are not happy. Find out if you think you will be. What can the school offer you? I have had to teach lessons as part of the interview process in the past. This is understandable and if you are a good teacher, will enjoy being able to 'show off' and use all your teaching tools. But what about the leaders and management of the school. Ask them questions. Do they have the same philosophies on education as you? Are they up-to-date with new initiatives and encourage their teachers to stay uptodate?Look for little things like a subscription to TES  in the staffroom.What do they have in place for Professional Development?

• Value yourself. Be confident but honest. A good school will respect the fact that you are driven professionally and if they employ you it is expected that they will help facilitate this. Does the school have positions of responsibilities that become available often?  If you want to grow and develop as a professional, you need to seek a school which has plenty of opportunities for you to do so and that values a teacher that has the drive to better themselves.

• Induction. If you are taking part in the Induction (for new teachers at the beginning of a new school year), it means you have accepted a contract with the school. But before that, you will know if the school is experienced with having international teachers and is prepared to support them with the move to a (possibly) new country. Do they have a forum for new teachers (a Facebook page for example)? Do you have school documents (medium term plans, schemes of work..)before you arrive at your new school? These will help give you a clue how well set up the school is for new staff. At one school I worked at, we were bused about for the first week, taken to the supermarkets, to restaurants etc...there was no time to feel lost or lonely. Another, my accommodation was not ready for my first week, I was left to get a taxi to work by myself...which I had to pay for and I bought my own map (as in, we were left to it). 
 

• Notice the small things. (Do this when you visit the school-if you can.) What is the attire of the staff like? If there is a smart dress code, then the school and its management team have high expectations on their staff and probably treat them like professionals. If it is casual, it may mean that leadership /management don't have much authority and professionalism is not valued.
 

• Study your contract and the package carefully. Money is not everything, but remember that it is one way that you feel valued as a professional. Everyone has tough weeks, but they will be easier if you are paid well. (See above-about doing your own research). Check out which area you may live in, (note, if it is by a UN, it probably means accommodation prices will be sky high...just saying!!)
 

• Think about what you want in the long term. If you are just in the international teaching circuit for the experience, then a year here or there does not matter. These teachers are called 'backpack teeachers'. But if you are in the for long haul, it does matter if you move from school to school frequently. Schools don't want to continually invest time and resources into recruitment. Choose a school where you can see yourself being for at least 3 years.
 

• Follow your gut. Sometimes, no matter how many lists you make about the pros and cons of schools, you just have to follow your gut feeling and hope that you have a great experience working at that school. (I once, on a visit to a school, that I then worked in, met a woman, whom I knew I wouldn't gel with or work well with. I thought it wouldn't matter. It did. My first instinct was right.)   

And if it doesn't work out, know there are plenty of other schools and opportunities waiting for you. Life is too short to be unhappy at work.

 Is there anything else I should add on to this mini-guide?

PS- If you are still reading- thank you! I am not surprised if you skipped bits and bobs...I obviously just felt the need for sharing!

The misadventures of a single, white female

I never talk about my blog. I love reading comments. But if someone talks about it I find I get rather embarrassed. 

The realisation that someone I know, a friend, read the rubbish I wrote about my visit to the Cheese Farm....or whatever it was.

But it is flattering all the same.  That is how I felt the other day, when conversation over shisha surprisingly turned to my blog. (You sweet, sweet lady!)

I then think: I should write more. I should use spell check spend more time on my posts. I should have more of a focus. Maybe I should write about my experiences of an International jet setter teacher.

But all I really want to tell you, is, that in the past day I have tried two new (to me) restaurants. Eaten crab with a bib on at Seven(...well...eaten my be a bit of an overstatement...I cracked and poked and dug...but did not each much!), I met the most well behaved and beautiful baby, Iseult at Osteria, where we finished our meal with ice-cream...well her mum and I. The best ice-cream in Nairobi. Thankfully it is a long drive from where I live, otherwise I would be there everyday this holiday!

Not very productive, or very exciting or very adventurous is it?

My eyes are not as fresh as they first were. Life in Africa has now become the norm for me. A fantastic norm, don't get me wrong, but I no longer do a double take at the women carrying a heavy load of eucalyptus on the busy road or get uptight at the mutatu driver that feels the need to undertake me. Africa has struck a chord inside, but I forget to appreciate it at times. I feel though, that no matter where I go to next, whenever that will be, I will always be drawn back to Africa, even just to smell it through words in a novel. (You know- that dusty, burnt rubbish smell! Only joking!)

Amazing as Africa is, and I think it is, it is expensive here. The cost of living, like other parts of East Africa, has risen so much that the 'good life' is not so easily attainable. Even many white Kenyans, with their rusty Landies and Bata boots, now head to the Middle East to earn a living so that they can repair their coffee machine (well...that bit I obviously made up...but you know what I mean!)

So-my blog has drifted. I am going to try again to see things a new. To write about life like I'll go tomorrow. To journal my experiences, so that they are on paper, for me to read and remember in the future, so that I have somewhere to travel back to, if I need to.