Nairobi News

Westgate; the shiny modern mall that attracts so many people in Nairobi to shop, drink, eat frozen yogurt, have the best red-grape martini's, write reports on a rainy day in Artcaffe, go to the cinema and catch up with friends over beer.
My thoughts are in Kenya. Thankfully the flurry of messages coming in from friends all say that they are safe.

Lost in the moment

I haven't really said much about the 'w' place. Why? Well, I think if you don't know me well it makes me seem quite a negative or unhappy person. But that isn't me. The experience has been quite negative but as a person I hope and think I am (generally) the opposite.

But you know, this year I have cried more than any other. Even today, when you cry so much that you get a headache, you are all puffy. I couldn't stop.

Then my dad phones and makes everything better. Really.

The things that I have been wrapped up with this year, will soon seem so unimportant. I won't remember names of those I don't want to and money is only money. I realise I am incredibly lucky to say that. (The 'w' place are taking every penny I don't yet have off me because I am breaking contract.) If I didn't have such a supportive family I would have had to stayed for another year, in unhappy circumstances. But instead I can get on a plane on Thursday and leave the (bad bits) behind me.

It is all pretty draining. Sad, genuine loving farewells, but relief that I have other opportunities and can go.

I went to my last yoga session and sushi with wonderful people (including my amazing teacher) this evening and these are the memories I will be taking with me. All the other stuff, well it isn't really that big of a deal. It is at the moment. But I am leaving it all behind me and looking forward to brushing my teeth is soft Scottish water soon!

No more 'bigging up' my runs in Nairobi

Recently I wrote about running in Nairobi and how I love these times to feel that I live in Africa. The week that I published that post, my buddy and I were spat on while running by a child and then a rock (more like a small boulder!) was thrown at us and bashed my ankle (honestly, I got such a fright, I thought I was bitten by a dog and I was worried that I would be off running for a while, but it is fine, thankfully). Rubbish, right!

Looking forward to some runs on the back road at home in Cove this summer, although, I still get frightened running past cows...really, who knows what they are thinking..?

Anyhow, saying that, my buddy and I ran 19.5km on Sunday; the weather was perfect and I nearly (nearly!) enjoyed all of it!

Running in Nairobi - more notes

Nairobi is such a funny place. I wish I wrote about it more, tried to explain it, but it is so hard too.

Sometimes I am not its greatest fan. At first, after Kampala, the fact that I could buy fresh milk or good bread or decent chocolate made me happy. (and a lot of the time it still does). I sometimes joke to friends that I need to go to my favourite cafe, it might have been a while, and I think the waiters will worry about me! (Report writing has made me even more regular!!) But there are lots of things that I don't like about this city. The cost of the city being a big negative

But the fact that I can put on my trainers and run to the forest or on the roads on the quiet valleys is something I love about Nairobi.

Enjoying running is a gift here. On quiet Sunday mornings, running passed locals in their 'best' waiting for their Matatu to get to church or people walking to work or from a night shift. Nobody shouts 'mzungu' or giggles (like in Kampala), nothing is a surprise (not even the passing Hummer H1), but if you shout 'Jambo' passer byers look pleased and return the greeting. Passing little make-shift dukas (shop) with music blaring out but then in places it is so quite as you tread the roads, you can spot two hornbills in the avocado tree and some monkeys swinging from the branches.

Or, now that the rains have stopped, on a trail run in the forest. Passing a runner or two, if I'm lucky spotting a diki-dik hidden behind trees and bushes.

I feel like I have had little time this year to enjoy Africa. My runs are my time to do that.

Security in Nairobi-no joking matter

It could have just been a freak malfunction and accident. Like the helicopter crash in Peru earlier in the week.
But why do our ears prick as soon as we find out that George Saitoti was a victim of crash.

Theory 1 -Kenya's war with terrorism

Kenya is still at war. It is easy to forget. Fighting the Al Shabaab in southern Somalia. The war is not fought in Nairobi, it doesn't really effect our day to day lives. Some people may go to the shiny mall less and there are a few more badly trained, badly paid security men around, but that is about it.

Saitoti is a security minister. I read in the BBC that he was on his way to a security meeting, but in other sources I read he was on his way to a religious ceremony. Either way, he was a man in the know and controlled the National Security Intelligence Service and he had recently declared  that Kenya would not be cowed by 'terrorists'. There will be 3 days of mourning for the two ministers and it is quite clear that the ministers, particularly George Saitoti were very highly thought of and liked.

(image from the BBC)

Barely a week goes by without another security waring, of  a threats of an attack in Nairobi. These (perhaps too) frequent warnings seem to have the effect of complacency rather than awareness. I have a friend in security who keeps me far to well informed. I texted him on the weekend, jokingly, to say I was touring the Al Shabaab hot spots in Nairobi. (All the places he won't go with me basically. I know- not so funny Mother dear!) Then the strangest thing happened at one of these 'hot' cafes. A man with earphones silently stood up and moved around the cafe with an open magazine (it was Vogue by the way!). Once I had noticed the strange behaviour I couldn't ignore it and I couldn't relax either. Neither could others. Somewhere else you may pass someone off for being drunk or possible mentally ill. I normally do, but think I have been told too much. It was time for me to move on.

Security in Nairobi is an issue, I think (I think) it will have to get worse before it gets better.

I'll share theory 2 another time.

PS- Hello readers in Russia. You seem to be my biggest fans...yet I have no idea who you are. Don't be shy.

Sleeping in a tree house

Hey, so you remember I bathed in a canoe in a tree house not so long ago. Well, my friend Karen and I got a voucher for a free return visit (as there was a mix-up with our accommodation the first night we stayed on our yoga weekend). Score!

So, to celebrate Madaraka Day (a holiday to mark Kenyan gaining self-rule after Independence from the British) we escaped the city and went ALL the way to Karen! (So it was really like a stay-cation, as I was only in the car for about 40 minutes!).

There was no canoe this time...but our tree house had the best view of the Ngong Hills.

Ngong is the Maasai word for knuckles. See it?

My friend Karen (whom I stayed with in Karen, got it?) had to work far too hard, so I basically spent the time chilling out my myself, drinking endless pots of tea, then wine, writing report comments (makes me more honest!!) and reading. (Oh, I did also write a blog post, but think I had too many drinks by that time...it might need a bit of editing!) But mostly, I just sat and stared onto the Ngong Hills, mesmerized by them. Reflecting on my time in Kenya and thinking about my future. (Did I mention I was drinking wine!?)

Sweet huh! The food and service was also fantastic. You can go to the lodge just for a meal. I would recommend it!

Around the campfire in the evening we discovered that every guest (bar my friend) was a teacher. Oh the joy!

Now, just so you don't think I live a charmed life,I'll tel you, I did not sleep a wink. A little cut in my toe got infected and decided to throb all through the night. (Friends, you will be pleased to know that I did not in fact have to get it amputated...anti-biotics only. Panic over!)

Waiting

It was better than my experiences of medicals in Kuwait; where you are shuffled around from one unmarked door to the next, not knowing what was going on, like cattle on a ranch. But still...after waiting for over 30 minutes, to go from one doctor to the next, having blood tests then waiting for another half an hour for an x-ray...there were many other places I would rather have been.

I forgot to take a book and my phone is only the source of so much entertainment.  (I don't even have Solitaire on it!)

I was taken from one waiting area, which was under construction (I thought it was too rude to take a photo-but it was quite comical really) to another, a shinier one, where the four staff were huddled round the television. 30 more minutes, I was told. Nobody else seemed in a hurry, happy to watch the Afro-Sinema. I though, couldn't quite face the Nigerian soap, the over acting, the drama, with dialogue going in and out of English...it is nearly, not quite, but nearly as bad as The Bold and the Beautiful.

I was tempted by the 2008 copies of The Japan Journal (!) in the waiting room...but my name, 'Mzungu' (oh yes-that name-used for white foreigners) was called just in time.

I know I shouldn't complain...a Sykes monkey was in my garden today, getting a snack from the avocado tree...I know I shouldn't complain...but I just did!

More about my 'Feel Good' weekend

I'm still thinking back to my amazing weekend 'away' here in Nairobi, with the Ngong hills just poking out in the distance.

I love getting in my car and driving for 45 minutes and feeling like I have escaped!

The weekend was full of good food and laughing out loud with new and even newer friends.(Agathe did a great job of capturing the weekend on photos...only a couple of shots are mine.)

Oh yeah, we did some yoga too! When we weren't around  table, I spent my time trying to find the little damn holes in my pelvis (!) and trying to get on my head without someone standing behind me (I am such a scaredy cat!).By the second day I found it tricky enough to just stand.

 

 (That would be me in the black trying to get up...it must have been when I was having a rest from watching everyone!!)

I left (as always!) determined to keep up  start my home practice or at least wash my yoga mat between lessons!

(PS- my friend and I received a voucher for a free night at the lovely Ngong House, where the yoga retreat was held, so I will tell you more about it after my next time!)

Kibera-revisted

As I said in a recent post, I went back to Kibera last weekend. It is different every time, it changes with the seasons and is growing daily. This particular Saturday morning seemed particularly active. I think with the rains it just takes more effort to move around and it takes longer doing anything-perhaps this is why it seemed busier. There were more children in the classroom at the Kibera Mpira Mtaani project too. Maybe with the rains people are less likely to want to stay inside there homes.

My friend and I were well prepared for the visit; we wore out gum boots (wellies) as there is no escaping the mud and water and whatever else. I cannot imagine how hard it must be to live there with the weather we have been having at the moment.

Work is harder during the rains. There are only certain parts of Kibera that cars can get to, from the rest of the maze is only accessible to foot. So all the materials for building work (like the new classroom for the project) has to be carried in or pushed on carts (tough in the mud), therefore labour is more expensive during rainy season.

On the other hand, the smells are not as pungent as when I last visited. (This was a relief as we were working, teaching the ladies to make cards, in the room above the latrines). The only smell was of the fish being sold.

I want to show you more of Kibera. The largest slum in Africa. But I can't. I don't have any more photos. I find it hard to get my camera out and take photos in such close proximity to people outside their homes, or working, busily placing the oval tomatoes back into position on their pyramid. I think it's invading their privacy and space. I know I could ask and some might say yes and even enjoy it and quickly pose for a stranger.

I wish I could show you images of the men gathered round, getting involved in the argument that promised to turn into a fight; as matutus stopped more men continued to gather round the crowd, wanting to know what was going on and join in the 'fun', but a man was taken away and the fight dispersed before it began, all done with good humour and spirit.

I wish I could show you the group of children gathered round a TV watching The Last of the Summer Wine standing in the mud and dirt that surrounds them.

Another time, perhaps. I will try to take more photos on my next visit.

The popular, Kenyan, Ringtone

I am not one of those teachers that spend their evenings with friends talking about the pupils in my class or the things they get up to. (I have to admit that I did this in my first year of teaching-but how can you not when a TV is thrown out of a classroom window by an 8 year old!).
Anyhow, sometimes we just have to share.

At assembly this week I could not stop smiling. They showed a music video of a song that a pupil  ('Sammy Vee') had a hand of producing.  He and his friends from class are in the video, (and if you knew these children, you would know they are just so special-friendly, enthusiastic, hardworking...) and it was just great to see what these amazing children have been getting up to on their weekend! Ringtone, the Kenyan artist that the song was produced with, is a popular urban gospel singer here, who apparently has a big future.

Hope you like the video!

I really like the song-it got some playtime on a UK radio station recently. Hope you like it!

Greetings from Kibera!

I revisited Kibera Mpira Mtaani (their website is under construction-so I cannot pass it on at the moment) on the weekend with Anisa, who is heavily involved and committed to the organisation. I've written about the project a couple of  times before.  Firstly when I visited to do some painting with children on the weekend and then the time I made and took play dough.

The project is successfully developing and growing; becoming more and more self-sufficient.

This time we went to try and teach some of the teachers and older students to make greetings cards, so that they could be sold to raise funds for the organisation.

Phew-it was hard work! Some of the ladies were fantastic-so enthusiastic and motivated. Others were 'deafeated' not long after we began. A few more sessions are needed before the ladies will be confident in their tasks (it also became pretty obvious early on that an investment into a guillotine is needed!) but it was a great start.

Beware! Ex-matatu driver

I know I have blogged about the weather (and driving) a LOT recently...but I am British.So...

If you have seen the news recently, you are aware that parts of Kenya have had an awful amount of rain. Yes, the farmers needed it for a while, but the thirsty land cannot cope with it. Never mind that it is now taking people an hour and a half to make 15 minute journey here in Nairobi, but there have flash flooding in Hell's Gate National Park, killing a church group.

The downpours are amazing and it can last all night. Thunder so close and loud that car alarms are set off. And skies that turn green with the lightening. (The only place I have seen better lightning shows were in Panama City-it was like watching a firework display there!)


Its natural to feel a bit frightened in thunderstorms. But my good friend and running buddy here, was telling me of their journey back in a taxi, when the driver, who obviously did not like storms, took his hands off the wheel to and put his head in his hands when he saw a flash of lightening. Probably not the best plan as the car was still moving..quite quickly too! (I have been asking some of the local staff at school if he thought the lightening was some kind of spirit...but everyone is in agreement that it was just a crazy driver...good to know!)

But, I am not letting the weather 'rain on my parade' (having a good term so far...it is ONLY week 2 though!) and I managed to go out for a run in the drizzle before the storm arrived this evening. Happy days!

PS- Of course it rains in Uganda too, it rained when we were staying in Fort Portal (no surprise there then) but after the most beautiful hot day so we welcomed the rain that gave us the time and opportunity to have a warm bath...and then a swim in the lake!

PPS- I just had to get my askari (guard) because I think my little coastal cottage (!) roof is going to collapse...I no longer have leaks...just a slight downpour. My askari wasn't sure what I expected him to do...me neither really...just sharing I guess!

Driving in Africa

I was writing recently about how I don't think I am appreciating the 'norm' in my life any more. Which, for the most part is true.
I do however never forget how much I love to drive here.

I am not being sarcastic.

Where I live in Nairobi, traffic is really not a problem. I drive around in my Surf like I have somewhere to go. Winding through the valleys, with the sun (more often than not) is shining and I think..I am so lucky.

I love it. I love the old battered trucks and the dust in my hair. (Again...not being sarcastic!). It's fun. I feel I am being adventurous and I feel like it is part of being in Africa. I can pretend, for that time, that I am rushing from the farm to see how my new house is coming on...the builders are just taking soooo long!! (Yada yada yada!)

Hey-we all like adventure...until you get stuck in the mud!

Ah well, I learnt from the good old Prado days...and bought a spade...which I now keep in my boot...you never know.

I think of the flat highways in Kuwait, where I drove at 120km per hour, in the slow lane. Eeeeeek! I used to drive a small Peugeot (say it-Peugeot...is there an 'r'? Jo...no). I think I may not fit in one again. I might just have to plant a tree or two here, to offset my carbon footprint...just so I can get a 4x4!

The other night at a party, a friend was telling her 'worst day in her life' story. Which although might not sound that bad to some, sounded pretty traumatic. It was the day of her driving test...in Nairobi. Now, I have friends who have been to the government building and $100 later have walked out with their papers...never having to sit in a car. But this friend wanted to do it properly. She arrived at the test centre at 6 am ,when requested, arriving before the instructors. She then had to do a lot of waiting around, lining up in queues, playing on her blackberry, until it was time to get in the car...with the 3 other candidates. She didn't leave until 8.30pm, but at least she did have legal documents in her hand...unlike some unlucky candidates. To me, the day sounded awful (doing it in the UK...more thank once...was bad enough!)...and I think I may have either walked out, cried or killed some unlucky person.

But, now, like me, she enjoys her drives in the valleys with her music turned up loud!

Shake, rattle and roll

I didn't even sit up, just lifted my head for a few seconds to try and focus. Was my bed moving or was I just dizzy. But it continued for a lot longer than I expected. I wondered at first if it was a lorry on a nearby road. I looked at my clock, just after 5, a little bit longer before I have to get up. I just rolled over. I would be no good in emergencies.

I asked in the staffroom; Did anyone else feel the tremor this morning? Yes. Turns out it was a little shake after all, 4.9 is 'moderate' apparently, following on from the quake in the Indian Ocean. Not quite as 'exciting' as Mud's experience - but, I think a bit of shake on the first day of term is a sign. Hopefully a good one.

This is what you get by not having UN plates

Getting waved to the side of the road by two policemen shouldn't really be anything to worry about, when you know you haven't done anything wrong.

But you do. I did. I smiled and asked what the problem was, as the two policemen waved there machine guns around. They asked me to come further off the road. I was thankful that it was quite a busy street and just smiled. I checked they were wearing there pin numbers, they were. so apparently they were on duty.

They said I was on my mobile. Mmm. No. I wasn't. (I really wasn't.)
I ended up flattering the policeman with the breathe smelling of booze, thanking him that he is trying to do a good job.

He hadn't been drinking he said. Well I wasn't using my phone, I said. Have a good day. He needs my mobile he says, to check the log. I understand, I will help you and show you my log. Or, if you would like I'll be happy to drive to the nearest station to show them.

Goodbye.

Just happy to leave, with my mobile and money still in my purse.

Really-there is nothing for it, but go for a glass of wine, who cares if I'm still in my running gear.

Then I think,bugger, I should have taken down their pin numbers. Then I think, what's the point. Sad, isn't it?

Like the fact, that (even though I don't get road rage) I have taken to use my camera (on my phone..I promise I wasn't doing this when the police stopped me!) to take photos of bad drivers. Why? Am I going to go to the police about some woman that nearly drove into me near school. No, but it makes me feel better!

YOU CAN'T DRIVE!

Aaaaah-that's it! All better now.

Maybe I should just wear my costume...my Robin one, more often!

(PS- I know this is not unusual. (Not the Batman thing.) My friend got pulled over 5 times on the road from Mombasa to Nairobi when we travelled in convoy in October. He didn't have a liscense so ended up paying a small fortune in bribes, which we all found quite funny at the time. But I really didn't do anything wrong...)

The misadventures of a single, white female

I never talk about my blog. I love reading comments. But if someone talks about it I find I get rather embarrassed. 

The realisation that someone I know, a friend, read the rubbish I wrote about my visit to the Cheese Farm....or whatever it was.

But it is flattering all the same.  That is how I felt the other day, when conversation over shisha surprisingly turned to my blog. (You sweet, sweet lady!)

I then think: I should write more. I should use spell check spend more time on my posts. I should have more of a focus. Maybe I should write about my experiences of an International jet setter teacher.

But all I really want to tell you, is, that in the past day I have tried two new (to me) restaurants. Eaten crab with a bib on at Seven(...well...eaten my be a bit of an overstatement...I cracked and poked and dug...but did not each much!), I met the most well behaved and beautiful baby, Iseult at Osteria, where we finished our meal with ice-cream...well her mum and I. The best ice-cream in Nairobi. Thankfully it is a long drive from where I live, otherwise I would be there everyday this holiday!

Not very productive, or very exciting or very adventurous is it?

My eyes are not as fresh as they first were. Life in Africa has now become the norm for me. A fantastic norm, don't get me wrong, but I no longer do a double take at the women carrying a heavy load of eucalyptus on the busy road or get uptight at the mutatu driver that feels the need to undertake me. Africa has struck a chord inside, but I forget to appreciate it at times. I feel though, that no matter where I go to next, whenever that will be, I will always be drawn back to Africa, even just to smell it through words in a novel. (You know- that dusty, burnt rubbish smell! Only joking!)

Amazing as Africa is, and I think it is, it is expensive here. The cost of living, like other parts of East Africa, has risen so much that the 'good life' is not so easily attainable. Even many white Kenyans, with their rusty Landies and Bata boots, now head to the Middle East to earn a living so that they can repair their coffee machine (well...that bit I obviously made up...but you know what I mean!)

So-my blog has drifted. I am going to try again to see things a new. To write about life like I'll go tomorrow. To journal my experiences, so that they are on paper, for me to read and remember in the future, so that I have somewhere to travel back to, if I need to.

Namaste

It's hard to blog when you spend all your time working. It's great to take a break from the routine at school, a little visit to 'India' for the day was just what was needed.

I'm on holiday next week-horrraaay! You will hear more from me then. 

Om shanti.

A cheesy day

I visited a small cheese farm on the weekend.We all got dressed-up for the day...

and looked rather glamorous...don't you think?

 So, there was cheese...

 and more cheese...

and champagne to celebrate a friend's birthday. (I kept thinking that my great friend Jo would have loved it-as there was also plenty of butter and salt on the table!Bonus!)

It was a lovely day, but I had the worst sleep that night...!

I am now trying to think of a way I can live out of the city, with a garden that spills into the valleys and space for some guinea fowl to roam. Any ideas?

sunny days

The days take a while to heat up, but by lunchtime I am blocking out the noise around me, dishing out the lunch in silence, the heat giving us all (not just me, surely!) a short temper.Trying not to take it out on those around me...but it's hard. By 4pm, all remaining energy has been sapped from me, but being 'on show' at the end of day car-park duty requires a bit of a smile, a wave and a word or two.

Friends and I talk of our time living in Kuwait, the smell of the heat and the burning hot steering wheel. It's 10 degrees Celsius cooler here, in Nairobi. But being British, we like to have a wee moan occasionally and the weather is the topic of conversation.

Another difference here to that of the heat in the Middle East, is that it cools down at night, right down. Cool enough to forget how hot it gets. So cool that in the mornings we spend break complaining that our toes are still cold and repeatedly reminding ourselves to leave a cardigan in school.

The red dust streets need watering, to make those on the school-run happier. More able to breathe and see where the school gates are. The idea of that waste does not sit well with a lot of people. Most of us are happy to wait until the rains find us. They have reached the coast and some parts of Tanzania. It won't be too long. Apparently, the rains may arrive as soon as Friday.

Ants cover my flat, in the search for a water. My taps run dry most of the time, so they are out of luck there, but they have found their way to the inside of my kettle and the toilet...clever leaders they have. 

Entertaining

I was so excited to have friends round for wine and cheese the other night, that I went to a lovely shop/bar in Nairobi beforehand to do some wine tasting! I found some lovely wines, including wine from this vineyard that I visited in South Africa last year.

 

I then went home and made little cards to match the cheese to the wine. Sadddoooo!

But all that didn't matter when my little cottage was filled with stories of love and life, laughter and a little bit of dancing!

PS-my friends all agreed that my little cottage belongs on a beach by the coast of Europe-rather than in a garden in Nairobi. it is tiny and wooden but it is cute nevertheless-my Mum and I will know eachother even better after her visit!