Let's Do the Time Warp - Addis Ababa

Apart from the very modern airport in Addis (with, by the way, the friendliest immigration officers that I have EVER encountered!); arriving in Ethiopia was like going back in time.

My friends that arrived from Uganda argue that the city is more advanced than Kampala, and in some ways it is: wide avenues and smooth roads, pavements, fast Internet and a few shiny buildings (there was even a lift in our hotel!). But to me, it was a bit like visiting a poor-mam's Cairo, just with less traffic. (Have I been in shiny Nairobi to long!?)

We walked around the Piassa avoiding stepping on the drunks on the pavements, the many beggars on street corners and passing the market stalls that were selling Ethiopian airlines flight socks, toothbrushes and eye masks. Enterprising! In honesty, I don't think I was prepared for the city. A St.George (one of the local beers) at the oldest hotel in the city was in order.

The Health and Safety officer has not made it to Ethiopia yet. You can smoke anywhere, even encouraged. At one hotel my friend asked if she could smoke in the lobby, the reply was along the lines of  "Of course, at my pleasure". Actually, in every hotel we stayed, even smoking in the bedroom was acceptable, however you were advised to not smoke in your bed. (There is obviously a story there!).

Taking a shower was also frightening.

Hello! See anything wrong in that picture!?

In fairness, this was my first impression on day 1. But since my friends and I went to explore the city, armed with an 11 year old guidebook, it took us a while to see the Addis that others might first encounter.

Returning to Nairobi was like going back to the future...lifts AND escalators. I kid you not!



 PS- talking of lifts-have you seen this voice recognition clip. It is soooooo funny.

Eleven! Eleven!ELEVEN!!!

(PPS- I think I have finished telling my stories about Ethiopia. I still have one that I may share...but it all seems like a long time ago now. Sure you will be glad of that!)

Anyone for coffee?

Ethiopia is the only African country never to have been colonised (it is debatable whether Liberia was colonised or not). This statement was repeated again and again on our visit; Ethiopians are naturally very proud of this.

I vaguely remember my facts from lessons taken in the hot and sticky classrooms in Kuwait. It was hard to keep my eyes open in History to be honest. But basically, Mussolini joined the scramble for Africa and part of the country was occupied by the Italians. Haile Selassie asked the League of Nations (which both Italy and Ethiopia were members of) for help, but it was refused and Italian East Africa (now Eritrea) was formally recognised. When World War II broke out in Europe, Britain (and Allied forced) stepped in to defeat the Italians in Ethiopia. (Or something like that...right, Mr Steve?)
But, considering the Italians were only in Addis Ababa for 5 years (I think. Tim?) the colony effort has made an imprint on the city.

The coffee culture in Ethiopia goes further back than the Italian occupation, but the Italian past is present. The many cafes around the Piassa are busy with men standing at bars, chatting about the days events while they drink a quick macchiato.  Calling 'Ciao!' (really) before they continue on with their day.  It is quite bizarre.

We spent the holidays comparing the coffee in different regions, but couldn't find better (or cheaper - 5 macchiatos cost just over $1!) than Tomoca Coffee, our favourite place in Addis.



(I stole Kelly's photo-thank you!)

The Outtakes

Everyone wants to get a good photo on their holiday, right? So, 4 people on holiday...how many cameras...like 6..!!?

(Seriously-I bet that none of my friends...including myself...even know where we were at this point!)

I took a ridiculous amount of photos of Bleeding Heart Baboons (or mountain monkeys)...why? I deleted all but one. I don't even like the things!? Truth be told, we all got a bit done with taking photographs-I didn't take my camera out of its case for the last 3 days.

I did take some good photos (for me). But I also took c**p  ones. (Hey-Bridget said it doesn't count if you put the stars in!)

(Really UNESCO- your subtle shelters ruined my photos!)

 (Taking photos, whilst riding a mule uphill, was never going to go well!)

But...we did have fun taking some silly pics...like tying to perfect the jump and smile photograph..(Maybe it is an American thing, as I think I found it the most difficult to do this..!?)

hehehe!

Another tricky photo was of the group trying to do a fist pump (now, I know this was my idea...but again.. for us Brits this is quite tricky. I expected my old work colleagues Brandie or Heather to run up to me at any time and want to 'hussle' or high-five me!)-but we did get half-decent photo in the end. You can see it here on Fist Pump Friday.

Happy Friday!

* Just read that the person that designed the UNESCO shelters/covers for the churches, won a competition.  This designer came first!!??

Ethiopia - the essentials

While it is still fresh in my mind, I thought I would write a little packing list for those travelling to Ethiopia, specifically the North. If, like me, you have done (did) no research into what you might need to take with you on holiday, this may be useful! (Read-learn from my mistakes!)

•  lip balm - an essential item. It is super dry in the North or the country and your lips become so chapped it is hard to smile without them cracking. My friends and I were all swapping methods of how to help them recover - the best being to use a sugar cube to rub Vaseline into your lips (great tip Sib!). 
• thick moisturising cream - your lips are not the only part of your body to get dry! The cream will also come in use for any chaffing that might arise after long mule journeys! Mary how did you do it??
• warm clothes- one jumper is not enough. Think woolly socks, or tights and boots for the evening in Addis.
•  plastic bags-although this item is not essential, but if you are a twat they may come in handy. At each church we visited (yes, all 51 of them!) you take off your shoes before you enter. We noticed that some anal tourists decided to have there feet in plastic bags, inside their shoes. Then when they take there shoes off their feet are still in the bags. Genius...or ridiculous...you decide!
• hats- it is hot during the day, that together with the high altitude is quite a combination; take a sunhat. As soon as that sun goes down, it is mighty cold-my advise is to take a woolly hat -or if you don't have one of those-a Santa hat will suffice!

 

• fly repellent (sure there must be such a thing!)- seriously, the flies in Ethiopia are like no others. It was not the famine in 1984 that made these winged annoyances crawl all over lips- they are EVERYWHERE all the time; mouths, ears, lips, eyes. If you are going for plastic bags, you may as well throw in one of those netted hats!!
• an extra bag - why? well, if you are like my friends, you will need it for all the things you haggle for and eventually buy in the markets. (Hey-not that I'm saying that 4, 5, 6, 7 8 crosses isn't one to many!! And no lady can have too many scarves!)

•  Sopadeine - (or another pain-relief pill!) an essential for most holidays (or events...right Jo!), but sun, high altitude AND teg (Egyptian honey wine) followed by beer and tequila, oh and I nearly forgot about the khat does not make a 9 hour car journey very pleasant.

Weighing the khat-the leaf of all evil!

• Motion/travel sickness tablets- read above; also useful for journeys on boats, burgads (tuk-tuks) and mules!

•  An up-to-date guidebook -( not that I am dising the 1998 Spectrum, honest Sibyl!) although some things, like the 12th Century churches haven't changed much, it is good to have. Or better yet, get a guide! Our tour was organised by Tarik at Yama Tours and was fantastic. He soon got to know us and modified removed all hikes physical exercise from our itinerary and added in more time for relaxing to shop and drink! It was a holiday after all! We spent 12 days in the North of the country and really you couldn't do it justice in less (but you could cut out more drive time with cheap internal flights)-I will have to go back one day to explore the South of the country!

And...don't forget your toothbrush!
 

PS-Hand sanitizer, Imodium and re-hydration salts are a given...! Obviously!

A Christmas Story in Photographs-Ethiopia

Addis Ababa

Bahir Dar/Lake Tana

 

Gondar and the Simien Mountains

Lalibela